In a city of cold corporate chains (think Cheesecake Factory), these small mom-and-pop-type haunts offer all the warmth of home.

by Ed Baker

Take Sushi (pronounced tah-kay):
8866 W. Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood
(310) 659-6580

I imagine a tornado tossed this local, low-key sushi haunt from a Tokyo street into the heart of the Sunset Strip. Owners Yayoi (mom/hostess) and Kino (dad/sushi chef) cheerily greet customers in Japanese and English. Eating at Take is not for those in a hurry. It is an evening in and of itself: You chit chat and order piecemeal until you realize you’ve stopped eating and begin to feel those Habu snake sake shots. (Kino will join in a toast, Yayoi will not.) Kino assembles artistic masterpieces, both raw and cooked, while watching the TV unobtrusively mounted over a fish tank on the back wall. Standout dishes include peppercorn octopus sashimi and live sweet shrimp served with their severed heads deep-fried (tastes like french fries and oh so fresh).

Osteria La Buca
5210 1/2 Melrose Ave.
Hollywood
www.osterialabuca.com

When I last visited La Buca, it was one tiny room, papered in old-world vignettes, three small wrought iron patio tables on the sidewalk, and Mamma (Loredana Cecchinato) visibly surveying reactions from the patrons and her staff (son, Filippo). But word of mouth travels fast and the unpretentious trattoria, with a real mamma cooking fresh Italian fare, recently reopened after a complete expansion and remodel. The staff, clearly not all Mamma’s offspring anymore, were attentive, prompt and genuinely polite—including the hostess, from whom I expected a perfunctory apology that she’d not be able to seat us without a reservation. Instead, she smiled and showed us to our seats. All pasta is made on site with special ingredients that undoubtedly include magic.

Agra Indian Kitchen
2553 Lincoln Blvd.
Venice
www.agraindiankitchen.com

If you blink, you’ll drive right by Agra. Simple, small and conspicuously devoid of tapestries and deity prints, Agra is a Venice local’s dining dream. As such, my first visit to Agra was with a Venetian family. We were barely seated when Papadum and its three companion chutneys appeared on our table. Before the second Samosa wave (the kids demanded more), our feast had arrived—six dishes, Mango Lassis and Kingfisher beer. Dinner included soup and rice. Agra is big bang for your little buck. At one point in the evening, the waiter apologized for being “short staffed.” Since the service was fine, I honestly don’t know what he meant. Perhaps someone would have entertained the kids? It is a family-owned business after all.

Irv’s Burgers
8289 Santa Monica Blvd.
West Hollywood
(323) 650-2456

This Little Engine that Could still does. Surrounded by mall-mentality calorie counters and modern buildings, Irv’s Burgers is a true burger stand, standing out since 1950. Its vintage Coca-Cola sign, hand-painted walls, canopied patio (with newspaper and zines “just for you”), and fried bacon and egg sandwiches are only a few reasons to love Irv’s. At Irv’s core, in the center window, you will find proprietor Sonia Hong smiling as she Sharpies your likeness onto the paper plate beneath a tuna melt. She has a happiness about her that is infectious. Sonia remembers most patrons by name and those she doesn’t still feel as if they are the only people that matter. This corner time capsule cranks out endless-summer backyard barbeque. And it’s one of the only places left in Los Angeles where you can eat for $5!