The WeHo eatery, popular for its tasty dishes and even tastier waitstaff, hits the big 2-0 later this month.

by Jeff Katz
Photography by John Skalicky
www.skalickyphoto.com

Mark’s is more than just a West Hollywood-area eatery or one of many American cuisine restaurants in L.A.—it’s become a neighborhood institution. Not to mention a performance space, Monday-night hot spot, home to an A-list catering company, oh, and a pretty safe bet to meet a cute date.

And with the upcoming 20th anniversary of the La Cienega restaurant, Mark’s is changing and growing yet again, as owners Chris Diamond and Wayne Elias plan for 20 more great years. “It’s a really significant milestone, and the reason is that we have such a passion for what we do and we try to reach out to the community, give back to the community,” says Diamond. “Obviously the customers are the reason we are here and we try to keep them happy all the time.”

Safe to say that in a fickle city like L.A., for any business (especially a restaurant) to make it to 20 years, someone obviously likes it. And Mark’s has been a special place for the LGBT community dating back to its earliest days when Mark DePalma opened up the kitchen in 1987. Fresh ingredients and classic dishes with unique variations are what the eatery became known for, and that menu is one which Elias, who is also the executive chef, continually tries to improve upon today.

“We realized that when people go out, as healthy as we think we are, some people want to go out and want to enjoy their meals and maybe not eat so healthy because they do that on a daily basis on their own,” says Elias. “So they are going out to have steak or have dessert. They are going to indulge a bit. … So we offer a lot of comfort food, but we offer it in a creative way, and using a lot of fresh produce and ingredients.”

Even though Elias updates the menu seasonally, drawing much of his inspiration from happenings and trends he sees going on in L.A., two items have obviously embedded themselves into the public’s palete and have remained on the menu for the past 20 years: the basil garlic rigatoni with chicken and the Mark’s Salad. “Every time I change the menu, if I try to take those off, I’m always putting them back on,” Elias says. “You can’t mess with what works.”

Mark’s also helps to put on some of the biggest events and parties of the year, including Elton John’s AIDS Foundation Oscar party, which Diamond and Elias just finished catering for the fourth time. The opportunity to create the menu for such a big event, in addition to Diamond and Elias’ catering deals with the Ford Amphitheatre and NBC, is in large part thanks to Mark’s. The two, who met more than 20 years ago while both were working as cater waiters, created their catering company, Crumble, after they bought Mark’s in 1995 and were inundated with requests to feed the fabulous.

The restaurant is also the original, and now permanent, quarters for Upright Cabaret. The performers will feel even more at home come mid-March when the newest renovation project at Mark’s is complete, which will feature a stage, new lighting, video and a completely remade patio—all just in time for Mark’s big anniversary party on March 26.

Of course, anyone who has been around the neighborhood more than a week has heard that Mark’s also features something besides great food and great performers. “It has sort of just been a reputation that restaurant has grown over the years, that Mark’s has a cute staff,” says Diamond. Clearly others thought so, too, and now the team is hoping to do some good with their good looks by creating the Men of Mark’s 2009 Calendar, with proceeds benefiting the Trevor Project.

But until you can have a dozen or so waiters and bartenders adorning your bedroom wall, stopping by for a good meal, and even better company, will have to do. “Dish It Out Mondays have become legendary and are as popular as ever,” Diamond says of the featured half-priced menu, on what is typically a slow night for restaurants. “Everyone knows that on Monday nights, the only place to be is Mark’s. … It is just one of the things that make this a real community spot.”

Mark’s is located at 861 N. La Cienega Blvd. L.A. For more information, visit www.marksrestaurant.com.

Mark

Name: Mark Lehmann

Age: 24

Best Physical Feature: Everything above the shoulders is pure gold!

How long at Mark’s: Over two years

Position: All-around workhorse

Favorite Mark’s Dish: Salmon with quinoa

Most interesting pick-up line you’ve heard at Mark’s: It’s never the question—it’s the persistence that makes you laugh. First it’ll be, “We should have drinks,” then “Come out Saturday night with us” (non-threatening group dynamic) and finally “Hey, I’m looking for someone to help me organize my office for a few hours a week—are you good with Macs?”

Timothy

Name: Timothy Neff

Age: 24

Best Physical Feature: Blue eyes, abs

How long at Mark’s: Nine months

Position: Server

Favorite Mark’s Dish: Salmon

Most interesting pick-up line you’ve heard at Mark’s: Nothing too crazy, just your usual “You're hot!” “Great smile!” or “We should get a drink sometime.”

Chris

Name: Chris Thurman

Age: 23

Best Physical Feature: Smile

Position: Server

How long at Mark’s: A few months

Favorite Mark’s Dish: Ahi tuna

Most interesting pick-up line you’ve heard at Mark’s: “Damn your hot—I hear this place is full service!”

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