Adelaide, the Wine Country, and Kangaroo Island: the undiscovered gourmet and nature corner of Down Under

By Stan Wu

Australia is always at the top of the list of dream vacations -- its natural wonders, dramatic scenery, lovely cities, gourmet cuisine, fine wines, and most of all, its (gay) friendly, welcoming locals are world-renown. Visitors to cosmopolitan Sydney or Melbourne, or the awe-inspiring Great Barrier Reef and Outback, invariably return home with raves for that "Aussie, Aussie" spirit. Sometimes lost amid the hoopla for the Opera House's beauty or exciting ocean adventures along the Reef, however, is the lesser-known state of South Australia. This large and diverse destination is tucked comfortably west and yes, south, of the major stops on the average tourist map, but offers many of the same nature, culture, and gourmet features that bring visitors back to Australia again and again, only in a more unassuming and even more friendly package.

Just over an hour's flight from Melbourne (nonstop flights from L.A. to Melbourne on national carrier Qantas make the connection easy), Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, is one of the most pleasant, walkeable, and certainly the greenest -- and cleanest -- big city you'll ever visit. Over 2,300 acres of parkland swath this compact and genteel city, full of lakes, biking and running trails, and sports facilities -- in addition, since the city was laid out in an easy grid system with broad, gracious streets, all the major attractions are easy to find. It's impossible to get lost here, and if you do, just ask a friendly local for directions or hail a cab -- your driver will probably warm up to you immediately and start sharing stories of his hometown with pride. One cab driver gave me insider tips on where to find the best dim sum in town (this is a surprisingly international city), and beamed as he told me that in 1998, Adelaide's State Opera of South Australia was the first company in Australia to stage Wagner's entire Ring Cycle -- a feat it has repeated since. At times, these animated conversations will leave you with the feeling of staying in a very open, overgrown country town -- albeit set in a decidedly classy and relaxed urban environment.

First-time visitors to Adelaide are often surprised at the depth of cultural and artistic life in a city of just over one million people. The impressive South Australian Museum features the world's largest collection of Aboriginal artifacts, along with rare fossils and opals from the Outback. It's hard to believe that the border of the Outback's vast Flinders Range -- full of desolate but beautiful stony deserts, saltpans, and sand hills -- starts just 120 miles from this green park-like city. Indeed, South Australia is the country's driest state overall (with over 270,000 square miles of Outback desert), a fact which becomes apparent if you decide to extend your time in South Australia to take the famed Ghan Train from Adelaide north all the way through the vast interior "heart of Australia" to the tropical "top end" and city of Darwin, Northern Territory. This leisurely two-day train trip, a once-in-a-lifetime memory for many, stops in Alice Springs and Katherine Gorge, passing a distance of 2,000 miles through the most dramatic Outback scenery, with chances to see just how unpopulated and stark the interior of the country is (although full of diverse wildlife like kangaroos, koalas, dingoes, snakes, etc.).

Adelaide's Art Gallery of South Australia boasts fine examples of early Australian art and landscapes. These institutions -- along Parliament House, the University of Adelaide, and State Library -- are located on leafy North Terrace, aptly named Adelaide's "Cultural Boulevards." Indeed, Adelaide's celebrated Festival of Arts, began 44 years ago and held every two years in February and March, and its quirky Fringe Festival sister, with a wide variety of comedy, cabaret, theater and art shows, is indicative of the abundant cultural choices available to residents and visitors alike. A highlight on the Australian gay calendar is Feast, Adelaide's annual gay and lesbian cultural festival. Taking place most of the month of November, the important (and quirky) festival, one of the biggest gay festivals in the country, includes top-flight and edgy programming in queer film, theatre, dance, sporting events, etc. No wonder one of South Australia's apt nicknames is "The Festival State."

The world-famous vintages produced in the nearby wine regions of South Australia (Barossa, Clare Valley, Adelaide Hills, Coonawara, and several others) are highlights of any trip to this small state with the very large food and wine reputation. In fact, South Australia, blessed with a pleasant Mediterranean climate (mild winters and warm to hot summers), produces 70 percent of all Australian wine exported. Before you head off to sample the bottles of South Australia's picturesque vineyards, you should stop by the National Wine Centre of Australia, part of the University of Adelaide. This interactive institution is less a museum than hands-on exploration of the history of winemaking, full of fun exhibits which help you improve your wine appreciation skills (How are you supposed to hold a wine glass properly? What skills did the first German winemakers who arrived in the nineteenth century bring? What are the ideal pairings for your dinner party?).

To help you navigate through some of the more than 15 diverse wine regions of South Australia, call Mary Anne Kennedy of A Taste of South Australia Tours. The extremely knowledgeable, friendly, and passionate Mary Anne (or one of her excellent guides) will drive you on a personalized tour through the rolling hills and vineyards which begin just 30 minutes from the city (the furthest is less than two hours away). You'll visit a range of award-winning wineries, from the most internationally known like Penfolds, Rosemount or Jacob's Creek, to more boutique cellar doors to sample some of the celebrated Australian varietals like Shiraz, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. Along the way, you'll probably stop to take in local color at a farmer's market like Barossa's on Sundays, or join in the fun at one of the many town festivals. Of course, man does not live by wine alone, and there are many bountiful gastronomic choices in Adelaide's wine regions, such as gourmet German food and artisanal cheeses in the charming German-influenced town of Hanhdorf.

When you return to Adelaide with all this newfound wine knowledge, you'll want to test out the city's burgeoning reputation as a cosmopolitan culinary destination. The days of bland English cooking are over (although this quietly gracious city still feels a bit like old England -- or a throwback to a simpler time), as Adelaide showcases fine examples of new Australian cooking. To whet your appetite, head to the mouth-watering Central Market downtown. Over 500 purveyors of farm-fresh meats, seafood, vegetables, fruit line the crowded stalls, and you'll sure to spot some of the local chefs purchasing supplies for the evening's fresh feasts. Gouger Street adjoining the Central Market is where you'll find many of the stylish upscale restaurants. The steady flow of immigrants into Australia has led to great diversity in dining choices -- from authentic Cantonese to spicy Thai and hearty Greek fare. Other fine dining choices can be found on Rundle Street (the main shopping thoroughfare) and O'Connell and Melbourne Streets in North Adelaide (more of a locals spot with many small "insider" restaurants).

Adelaide's nickname within Australia has traditionally been the "City Of Churches," because of its foundation as a religion-minded town and somewhat uptight, sober reputation. This was the only capital city not founded by convicts, but rather by English free settlers. While you still won't be able to cut loose here like you can in the bars and clubs of Sydney or Melbourne, visitors find that the nightlife is surprisingly happening, but just on a much smaller scale. After all, a city in the state that was the first to legalize homosexuality in 1975, cementing its progressive reputation throughout Australia, can't be all that uptight anymore, right? In addition, befitting a country that is overwhelmingly gay-friendly and inclusive, many of the bars and clubs in Adelaide are decidedly mixed -- there's no room for a "gay ghetto" in this compact and tolerant city. The city's oldest gay and lesbian bar (or pub as they call them here) is the Mars Bar (120 Gouger St.), which puts on a famous drag show and usually packs its dance floor every weekend. The Edinburgh (233 Currie St.) is probably the most popular pub in town, attracting a good mix of locals, young and old, male and female. Open seven days a week until 3 a.m. (church ladies be damned!), the Queen Arms Hotel (88 Wright St.) is the newest gay hotspot for drinks, flirting, and dancing.

An ideal central hotel choice for sophisticated travelers in Adelaide is the Medina Grand Adelaide Treasury, located on historic Victoria Square. Remember that since the Australian dollar is weaker than ours, so you can splurge on some upscale accommodations such as this without breaking the bank. The former Treasury building's elegant façade masks hip, almost boutique-like accommodations that are very spacious and luxurious. Young artsy types flock to the excellent restaurant and buzzing bar every evening -- join the friendly locals in conversation here before walking the few minutes to Rundle Street or Gouger Street for some serious shopping and dining. Have you always wanted to spend the night in a firehouse (hunky firefighters not included)? The most unique places to stay in Adelaide -- such as the Fire Station Inn, complete with pole and a real 1942 fire truck in the middle of the main suites -- are part of the North Adelaide Heritage Group. Over 20 upscale and redone properties (other examples include the Bishop's Garden and a former chapel) are dotted around the charming shopping and dining streets of North Adelaide, all with romantic bedrooms, tasteful furnishings and antiques, and fully equipped kitchens.

Sitting at an outdoor café and people-watching while enjoying the clean air and clean living of the relaxing urban experience that defines Adelaide, it's easy to forget that South Australia is a wildlife wonderland. Expansive national parks and stunning world-heritage areas are only minutes away from the city, and as mentioned before, the unique scenery and attractions of Outback occupies most of the northern part South Australia (remember the entire state only has 1.5 million people)! For a quick and easy immersion into Australia's amazing variety of wildlife and natural wonders, take the ferry or a twenty-five minute plane ride over to Kangaroo Island, Australia's third largest. Only 97 miles long and 35 miles wide (with less than 4,000 permanent residents), Kangaroo Island is a pristine nature preserve that's the best place in the world to see marsupials in the wild (hence the name). Because there were no introduced foxes or rabbits or dingos on the island, it's easy to fulfill your fantasies of getting up close (but not too close!) to kangaroos, wallabies, koalas, fur seals, platypus, sea eagles, 254 bird species, and hundreds of other only-in-Oz animals. In the quiet of the late afternoon, standing just 50 yards or so from an entire pack of regal kangaroos, or standing right below a cuddly sleeping koala, you'll feel more in touch with Australia's wildlife than just about anywhere else.

The hearty souls who live on Kangaroo Island year-round are dedicated to preserving the natural flora and fauna of the island. With no large development permitted, the only real industry here is raising sheep, fishing, and, of course, nature and adventure tourism (the high season is Australian summer, from December to March). In addition, this small island boasts some wonderful artisan cheese, honey, jam makers, wineries, and farming operations, which lie in stark contrast to the wildness of the natural scenery: dramatic cliffs, endless caves, empty, wind-blown beaches, dense eucalyptus forests, black water swamps, empty roads, and huge rock formations at Flinders Chase National Park. Trust an experienced tour company such as Craig Wickam's Adventure Charters to show you the many treasures of this island. Schedule at least two full days to see the major highlights of Kangaroo Island in depth (leave extra time for long photo expeditions to capture unforgettable images of kangaroos and koalas, as you won't get any closer than this in the wild). Tourists stay overnight in one of the charming bed and breakfasts and guesthouses around the island, with two of the best being Stranraer Homestead and Wanderers' Rest. Both guesthouses' hosts prepare elaborate dinners and breakfasts using the best local, organic ingredients and abundant fresh seafood.

The state of South Australia is fast becoming a quintessential Australian travel experience. From the gracious cultural and dining pleasures of the "big" city of Adelaide, some of the finest and most beautiful wine regions in the world, and all of the country's vast wildlife and nature jewels on one remarkable island, you'll constantly discover numerous surprises and pleasures that visitors who stay on the tried-and-true Sydney, Melbourne, and Reef tourist track will miss. You'll probably have such a relaxing and enjoyable time way, way "Down Under" in South Australia that you'll want to come back to experience more. Perhaps the Sunday Times of London summarized the attractions of South Australia the best. "Without having to venture far beyond Adelaide, you'll find the Oz experience distilled into a single frame, with something of everything that first enticed you to fly halfway round the world in the first place."