By Joseph S. Amster

Hitting the Mark

Mark's Restaurant keeps up with the times while not forgetting the classics.

When you're a community institution like Mark's Restaurant, it would be easy to simply rest on your laurels and keep serving the classic dishes you've built your reputation on. Luckily, owner/chef Wayne Eliasand his business partner Chris Diamond like to challenge themselves and their clientele, and have recently unveiled a new menu that serves up fresh offerings without sacrificing the favorites his restaurant is famous for. With a combination of quiet elegance, moderate prices, adorable waiters, and friendly atmosphere, Mark's remains a community favorite.

Begin your meal with one of Marks' signature cocktails. Elias is proud of his homemade infusions, and this evening's special watermelon infusion cocktail was a refreshing libation -- perfect for a hot summer evening. The pear martini was more potent, but equally tasty, with a first day of summer refreshing fragrance -- it packed quite a punch too.

Appetizer selections are favorites here, with some just stopping by for them and cocktails. For anyone who's been to a party catered by Mark's, the Thai chicken handmade rolls are always memorable. Three other favorites are featured on the trio of tastes: coconut shrimp, pan-Pacific turkey pot stickers, and filet mignon tacos. Presented on an artistic glass plate (as are most of the dishes), the coconut shrimp were not overcooked and retained their texture, and the honey cognac sauce was a delicious complement to the coconut. The pot stickers were nice and light, served with a slightly spicy dipping sauce. Equally delicious were the filet mignon tacos, served with guacamole, pico de gallo, and sour cream. A real standout, however, is the grilled artichoke. Grilling concentrates the artichoke's flavor, which is enhanced by the refreshing tarragon aioli. Also a must is Mark's famous salad: papaya, avocado, and farm-raised shrimp finished with raspberry vinaigrette -- it's truly an edible work of art.

Entrée selections are divided into "From the Sea," "From the Land," and "Specialties of the House." This evening, we opted for the seared Australian lamb loin which had a good gamy taste that you can only get with quality lamb -- a complex flavor that evolves as it's consumed. A Mark's favorite is Chef Wayne's turkey meatloaf, which was soft, yet firm, peppery, moist, and finished with a rich wine reduction. Other entrée favorites include filet mignon, Atlantic salmon filet, grilled jumbo prawns, and stuffed chicken breast.

The dessert selections are numerous, and although we were pretty full from an extensive feast, we had to make room for Mark's famous Key lime pie with its firm and crumbly crust and sweet, sour, and savory flavor; as well as the chocolate chip cookie, served warm in a cast iron pan and topped with three scoops of vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. It was better than sex.

For more information, call (310) 652-5252, or go to www.marksrestaurant.com.