By Joseph S. Amster

It Takes a Village

Serving up a slice of history with rice and beans.

In a city where restaurants come and go, it's always good to find institutions like the Mexican Village, which is still going strong after 40 years. Abel Olivares Sr. opened the family-run restaurant in 1965 after working as a chef at Perinos, Windsor West, Dales Secret Harbor, and Chasens. His expertise and the love of his family are evident in the cuisine and atmosphere of this venerable institution. Abel and his family are gracious hosts, and they greet you as you enter their restaurant. Be sure to check out the pictures of Abel with one of Pancho Villa's wives Cantiflas, or former Mayor San Yorty dining at the restaurant.

This cozy and understated restaurant features a large and centrally located bar with very potent libations. The bartender's recommendation of the pomegranate margarita ("loaded with anti-oxidants") was a winner -- it was a tasty and fruity concoction that was so smooth I would have been tempted to have a few if I wasn't driving. Their margarita menu is extensive, as is their selection of Mexican beers and premium tequilas.

Their salsa is blended smooth, and has a good balance between vinegar and heat and is packed with lots of cilantro. I heartily recommend the albondigas soup, which comes in a flavorful and non-oily stock swimming with potatoes, carrots, peppers, and onions. The albondigas had a delightfully light texture, as opposed to the heavy meatballs I usually associate with this dish.

Next up on this evening's selections was the carne asada, which was very tender and topped with lots of coarsely ground pepper. This entré came with a cheese enchilada with an understated sauce that didn't dominate the dish. Finishing off the platter were refried beans that were creamy but with some solid beans left, cool sour cream, and chunky guacamole. Next up was the camarones al mojo de ajo, with large shrimp sautéd in a lemony garlic sauce. I respect any restaurant that doesn't overcook shrimp, and these were perfect and packed with flavor. This dish also comes with vegetables on the side, which was a healthy and refreshing change. The Mexican Village's menu also features a wide variety of favorites like tacos, enchiladas, burritos, taquitos, chili rellenos, and tamales. For the more adventurous eater who prefers Mexican specialties, try their arroz con pollo, chile Colorado, steak picado, polle en mole poblano, langosta a la plancha, or camarones al cognac. Capping the meal was their homemade flan, which had a rougher and more solid texture than what I've had locally -- it was more like the flan I've had in Mexico City. Served with a good helping of gooey caramel sauce and a light dusting of cinnamon, it was delightful. The flan also comes with a Kahlua sauce, and other dessert offerings include cheesecake, carrot cake, chocolate cake, and Kahlua with ice cream (that's for next time).