By Joseph S. Amster

Fine Cuisine ... and All that Jazz

Go to the Bel Age's Ten20 for the music, but stay for the food.

When I go to a nightclub, I'm always hesitant to order a meal with the show. The food is usually overpriced, deep-fried, and unimaginative. But during a recent visit to the Ten20 Café at the Bel Age West Hollywood to catch James Tormé's set (yes, he's Mel's son, and he was great), I was surprised by chef Brian Frakes' cuisine. Frakes' approach emphasizes fresh ingredients prepared with a light touch and not masked with overly heavy sauces -- refreshing difference from most nightclub fare.

The Ten20 is a great spot to catch a jazz show, with up and coming talent often performing with legends who drop by for a set. With the $10 food and drink minimum, you can have dinner at a table or appetizers at the bar and enjoy an evening of great music. The shows are often free, and when there is a cover charge, the proceeds are usually donated to charity.

Ten20's wine list features a selection of four or five vintages in each of the most popular varietals and a scattering of others, with all offered by the glass or bottle. Prices range from $7-$20 by the glass. This evening's choice was the Willkenzie Estate, Oregon '03 Pinot Noir, with a deep, fruity beginning and a wonderful, smoky finish. It was easily the most drinkable wine I've had this year.

Appetizers included grilled chicken and lime kebabs that were very tender and came with two dipping sauces, as well as a tangy Asian slaw; cheesy crab quesadilla with cheddar and pepper jack cheese and lump crabmeat (I believe it was Dungeness, which scores points with me); a giant prawn cocktail served in a martini glass with grapefruit sorbet and a sweet cocktail sauce on the side; and light shrimp shu mai with three dipping sauces, including sweet and sour as well as spicy peanut.

Dinner portions are substantial, and with most falling well under $20, a great value. Served on all-white plates, the presentation was simple, yet elegant. The sautéed tiger prawns in the penne pomodoro were perfectly cooked, and the sauce was light and refreshing. The same could be said for the fettucine and rock shrimp -- nice change from the usual thick Alfredo sauces. The grass-fed bistro steak was smoky, very tender, and served with a nice reduction sauce. I highly recommend the ponzu marinated Norwegian salmon, cooked rare, infused with citrus, and topped with truffle-scented endive and baby tomato sautéed his was my favorite of the evening. Ten20's side dishes are real standouts and two or three could make a meal. The seasoned french fries were so crisp and spicy I couldn't stop eating them. I love spinach , and theirs is excellent topped with butter and lots of salt. The mascarpone-mashed potatoes were sinfully rich, but my favorite tubers were the roasted fingerling potatoes (I swear they had a taste reminiscent of pancakes!).

The dessert provided a sweet finish for a wonderful meal, with selections ranging from flourless chocolate cake, créme brulé, fruit tart, and more. The hands-down standout was the apple tart, with the apples cooked completely through with a delightful caramel flavor and a warm softness that played perfectly off the vanilla ice cream.

The Ten20 Café is also open for breakfast, and features the dinner menu at lunch. There's also a children's menu.

Their concert information hotline is (310) 358-7702.