By Joseph S. Amster

West Hollywood's Taste
restaurant's name is a
double entendre that fits.

Taste
8454 Melrose Ave.,
West Hollywood, (323) 852-6888

Located in a former bungalow on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood, Taste restaurant is a relative newcomer to the local dining scene. The choice of building speaks volumes for the restaurants cuisine -- deceptively simple, yet like the décor, stylish and elegantly restrained. You can choose to dine on the patio, but the fragrances wafting from the kitchen make the intimate dining room, with its muted brown walls and large round mirrors, a natural choice. If you're dining alone, the small wine bar is also an option.

I was impressed with the wine list, which featured a good selection of California and European wines. The list was heavy on reds and somewhat light on whites, but the Cinnabar Mercury Rising Meritage caught my eye based on its name alone. Our waitress informed us that it was one of the stars of the list and said we had to see the lovely label. The soft and complex flavor and fragrance of the wine did both the name and label justice -- it had a fruity beginning, which merged into flavors of cinnamon and chocolate that had a slow fade on the palate.

A great choice on the starters menu is the grilled romaine salad, with half hearts of romaine lightly kissed with flame so the flavor is concentrated. Paired with two strips of smoky bacon and a light and creamy Gorgonzola dressing, this is a refreshing and out of the ordinary way to begin a meal. The soups were also good on this cold winter night. The butternut soup was rich, smooth, and creamy with just a hint of curry; while the roasted tomato was smoky, slightly astringent, and had a good body. Their softly steamed artichoke with garlic aioli was a treat, but next time I'm going back for the beef tenderloin arugula pizzetta with red onion jam, and horseradish crème fraiche.

Main courses include a very generous grilled New York steak, orange ginger shrimp, sautéed wild salmon filet, red wine braised chuck roast, capellini with fresh artichoke, smoked duck breast, and nightly specials. The evening's special was short ribs, which were ultra tender, served in a rich onion-laced sauce over al dente noodles, and topped with a good dash of roughly ground Parmesan cheese. Ordering on the menu, the crispy Parmesan chicken paillard is tender and crisp cutlet of free-range chicken served atop a smooth and light garlic potato puree, frisee salad, and a delightful red onion jam.

A dessert favorite was the berry cobbler, served warm and topped with two scoops of vanilla ice cream, but there are far more selections to name than space permits. Be sure to get in for their special winter selections of hot chocolate, which looked like a real treat for those nights when the cold winds are blowing and the fog rolls in.

With their reasonable prices, understated décor, good service, and pleasing cuisine, Taste is proving to be popular -- the place was packed on a Tuesday night, so reservations are recommended.