By Joseph S. Amster

IN's first offering of restaurant picks -- return for the entrée course of romantic favorites.

With a selection of nearly every cuisine in the world, Southern California is a diner's paradise -- from the adventurous eater to those more meat and potatoes oriented, there's something for everyone. Over the next two issues, we'll present a few of our favorite eateries. Our first course focuses more on ethnic eateries, as well as a handy guide to the best Southern California has to offer. We return in our Valentine's Day issue with romantic spots guaranteed to impress a date, as well as in interview with one of Los Angeles' most imaginative chefs.

Casita del Campo
1920 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake
(323) 662-4255

I love restaurants that have been around for decades, and with 43 years in business, it's clear they've found the formula for success. In addition to the usual combinations, choices include many specialties like chili verde, chili Colorado, and pollo mole. Be sure to save room for their flan, which has a slightly rough and rustic texture.

Electric Karma Indian Cuisine
8222 1/2 W. Third St.
(323) 653-2121
12113 Santa Monica Blvd.

(310) 442-5250

Entering this restaurant, you're transported to the subcontinent of India. A particular favorite was the saag -- a spinach dish that is one of the signature dishes of Indian cuisine along with tandoori. Accompanying the feast, of course, is naan -- the light and fragrant Indian bread that's made on the side of the fiery clay tandoori oven. For those wanting to experience a variety of dishes without the bother of having to decide what goes with what, the wait staff is very helpful.

Ten20 Café at the Bel Age West Hollywood
1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood
(310) 358-7702

The Ten20 is a great spot to catch a jazz show, with up and coming talent often performing with legends who drop by for a set. Dinner portions are substantial, with most falling well under $20, and include sautéed tiger prawns in the penne pomodoro, fettuccine and rock shrimp, and grass-fed bistro steak served with a nice reduction sauce. I highly recommend the ponzu marinated Norwegian salmon.

Picanha
269 E. Palm Ave, Burbank
(818) 972-2100
73-399 El Paseo, Palm Desert

Picanha Currascaria is an exotic adventure for unashamed carnivores. This is an all-you-can-eat restaurant, so be sure to arrive hungry. A server in traditional Brazilian costume arrives with tender, hot meat skewered on a sword that he slices at your table with a large knife. The filet mignon was good, as this cut always is -- very tender and cooked to perfection. The highlight, however, came last: the Brazilian beef. Other cuts include leg of lamb, pork ribs, pineapple chicken, top sirloin, Parmesan-crusted pork loin, and chicken breast wrapped in turkey bacon.

The Mexican Village
3668 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles
(213) 385-0479

In a city where restaurants come and go, it's always good to find institutions like the Mexican Village, which is still going strong after 40 years. I heartily recommend the albondigas soup, as well as the carne asada, and camarones al mojo de ajo. The Mexican Village's menu also features a wide variety of traditional fare. For the more adventurous eater who prefers Mexican specialties, try their arroz con pollo, chile Colorado, steak picado, polle en mole poblano, langosta a la plancha, or camarones al cognac.

il Capriccio
1757 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles
(323) 662-5900

Il Capriccio is intimate and cozy, with the kitchen stationed in the middle of the restaurant, so the fragrances of the cuisine being prepared fill the establishment. Dinner entrées are abundant on the menu, and also include nightly specials worth asking about. Entrée choices include a potato encrusted salmon filet, New York steak, Italian sausage on polenta, and pork chops stuffed with mozzarella and prosciutto. Between the service, cuisine, and prices, it's no wonder this place is so popular.

Patrick's Roadhouse
611 S. Palm Canyon Dr. #6, Palm Springs
(760) 325-1551

If you're a fan of Patrick's Roadhouse in Santa Monica, be sure to check out the Palm Springs version. Breakfast choices include eggs with any number of breakfast meats, 15 different omeletes, as well as pancakes and French toast. Lunch selections include a variety of salads, lots of sandwiches, and 16 different hamburgers. Dinners feature favorites like chicken fried steak, pork chops, flame grilled baseball steak, poached salmon with dill sauce, filet of Dover sole, shitake mushroom ravioli, and loads of salads.

Baja Betty's
1421 University Ave., San Diego
(619) 269-8510

Baja Betty's is one of San Diego's most fun and vibrant places to eat and be seen. On any given day or night, you'll be treated to an event such as $1 Tostado Tuesdays or Margarita Madness on Sundays. The atmosphere is always friendly and inviting. The menu features an array of selections from five different custom salads, several appetizers, an assortment of quesadillas, and many house specialties such as chi chi chicken chipotle and you go grill swordfish tacos. Happy hour is offered Monday-Fridays, 2-6 p.m., and the restaurant can accommodate on-site or off-site catering. Of course, their extensive tequila menu is something to admire and enjoy, too! -- Just Russ

What's Cooking?

Whether you're looking for the perfect Italian, Mexican, Japanese or American cuisine, or just a restaurant in your neighborhood, you'll find it here.

American

The Abbey, 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 289-8410

Boathouse Restaurant, 2040 Harbor Island Dr., San Diego, (619) 291-8011

Barney's Beanery, 8447 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 654-2287; 1531 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 656-5777

Brians' American Eatery, 1451 Washington Ave., San Diego, (619) 296-8268

Catalina Bar and Grill, 6725 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 466-2210

Choices, 740 E. Broadway, Long Beach, (562) 983-7001

Eatwell, 8252 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 656-1383; 3916 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake (323) 664-1624; 1013 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 243-5928

Elmer's Pancake and Steak House, 1030 E. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 327-8419

Fiddler's Green, 2760 Shelter Island Dr., San Diego, (619) 222-2216

The Flying Leap Café, 2538 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 661-0618

Four Olives Café, 4276 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach, (562) 595-1131

Green Tomato Restaurant, 4090 Adams Ave., San Diego, (619) 283-7546

Golden Bull, 170 W. Channel Rd., Santa Monica, (310) 230-0402

Hamburger Mary's Bar and Grill, 8288 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 654-3800

Hamburger Mary's, 415 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 778-6279

Hash House A Go Go, 3628 Fifth Ave., San Diego, (619) 298-4646

Home Restaurant, 1760 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 669-0211

Hugo's, 8401 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 654-3993; 12851 Riverside Dr., Studio City, (818) 761-8985

Look Palm Springs, 139 E. Andreas Rd., Palm Springs, (760) 778-3520

The Lumberjack Grille, 3949 Ohio St., San Diego, (619) 294-3804

Martinis Above Fourth, 3940 Fourth Ave., Suite 200, San Diego, (619) 400-4500

Hob Nob Hill, 2271 First Ave., San Diego, (619) 239-8176

Numbers, 8745 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 652-7700

O-Bar, 8279 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 822-3300

Patrick's Roadhouse, 611 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 325-1551

Pipers, 222N. Western Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 465-7701

Plum Restaurant & Martini Bar, 241 E. Tahquitz Canyon, Palm Springs, (760) 322-0200

Tootie's Texas Barbeque, 68-703 Perez Rd., Suite A-1, Cathedral City, (760) 202-6963

Uptown Grill of Palm Springs, 150 E. Vista Chino, Palm Springs, (760) 320-6116

Asian

Beijing Café (Chinese), 8290 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 822-1688

Chan Dara (Thai), 310 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 467-1052; 11940 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., (310) 479-4461; and 13490 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey, (310) 301-1004

Chi Dynasty (Chinese), 2112 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 667-3388

Electric Karma (Indian), 8222 1/2 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (310) 653-2121

Kabuki (Japanese), 1545 N. Vine St. (in the Sunset and Vine complex), Hollywood, (323) 464-6003; 3539 E. Foothill Blvd., Pasadena (626) 568-9310, and locations throughout the Southland

Niko Niko Sushi (Japanese), 10839 National Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 470-2661

Ono Sushi (Japanese), 1236 University Ave., San Diego, (619) 298-0616

Rice Jones (Vietnamese), 3687 Fifth Ave., San Diego (619) 291-1887

Sushi Zen (Japanese), 8163 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 656-9002

Todai (Japanese), 8612 Beverly Blvd. (at the Beverly Center), Los Angeles, (310) 659-1375

Wang's In the Desert (Pan-Asian), 424 S. Indian Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 325-9264

Wokano (Japanese), 8408 W. Third St., Los Angeles (323) 653-1998, 913 S. Figueroa St., Downtown, (213) 892-8999; 33 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, (626) 578-1818, and locations throughout the Southland

Breakfast/Lunch

Auntie Em's, 4616 Eagle Rock Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 255-0800

Bagel Broker, 8718 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (310) 276-4884; 7825 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 931-1258

Hot Java, 2101 E. Broadway, Long Beach, (562) 433-0688

Kokomo Café, 6333 W. 3rd St., #120, Los Angeles, (323) 933-0773

More Than A Mouthful, 134 E. Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs, (760) 322-3776

Quality Food and Beverage, 8030 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (323) 658-5959

Wacky Waffles, 8226 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 654-2475

Wild Oats Café, 5630 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, (323) 462-0862

California

Blue Palms, 6126 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 464-0808

Cravings Restaurant, 8653 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 652-6104

The Flowering Tree (natural foods), 8253 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 654-4332

Mark's Restaurant, 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 652-5252

Oasis, 611 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 939-8900

Vermont Restaurant and Bar, 1714 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 661-6163

Woody's at the Beach, 1305 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, (949) 376-8809

Caribbean

Cha Cha's, 762 Pacific Ave., Long Beach, (562) 495-4242

Jamaican Grill, 2943 E. Broadway, Long Beach, (562) 434-3311

Deli/Market

Bristol Farms, 9039 Beverly Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 248-2804

Canter's, 419 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 651-2030

Gelson's, 8330 W. Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 656-5580; 5877 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, (323) 464-7316; 2725 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 660-0387

French

Crepes de Paris, 1731 University Ave., San Diego, (619) 298-7651

Le Petite Jacques, 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 789-3575

La Poubelle, 5907 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, (323) 465-0807

Italian

Boscoso, 707 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 325-4002

Ego, 329 Pacific Ave., Long Beach, (562) 432-9718

Fabiolus Café, 6270 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 467-2882; 5225 Melrose Ave.., Los Angeles, (323) 464-5857

Giannino, 2630 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 664-7979

Il Capriccio, 1757 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 662-5900

Just Pizza Etc, 315 E. Arenas Rd., Palm Springs, (760) 416-2818

Lotza Mozza, 119 S. Indian Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 325-5571

Marino, 6001 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 466-8812

Miceli's, 1646 N. Las Palmas Ave., (323) 466-3438; 3655 Cahuenga Blvd. West, Hollywood, (323) 851-3344

Marco's Trattoria & Pizzeria, 8136 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 650-2771

Panini Café, 8575 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 652-4441

Palermo, 1858 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 663-1178

Pane e Vino, 8265 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 651-4600.

Spark Woodfire Cooking, 11801 Ventura Blvd., Encino, (818) 623-8883; 9575 Pico Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 277-0133

The Stinking Rose, 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 652-7673

Latin American

Bossa Nova, 685 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-5070; 7181 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 436-7999

Gauchos Village, 411 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 550-1430

Picanha,269 E. Palm Ave., Burbank, (818) 972-2100; 73-399 El Paseo, Palm Desert, (760) 674-3434

Rick's Restaurant, 1973 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 416-0090

Mediterranean

Skewers, 8939 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 271-0555

MedGrill, 1263 University Ave., San Diego, (619) 683-2233

Mexican

Baja Betty's, 1421 University Ave., San Diego, (619) 269-8510

Barragan's, 1538 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 250-0382.

Casita del Campo, 1920 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 662-4255

Cocina D. Sanchez, 3332 Adams Ave., San Diego, (619) 283-0355

Edgardo's Café Veracruz, 494 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, (760) 320-3558

Lucy's El Adobe Café, 5536 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, (323) 462-9421

Margarita Grille, 70 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach, (562) 437-4583

THE MEXICAN VILLAGE, 3668 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 385-0479

WAHOO'S FISH TACOS, 6258 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles (323) 933-2480, and locations throughout the Southland