No Bull-Good Meat

By Joseph S. Amster

The Golden Bull serves up succulent steaks, with history on the side.

The Golden Bull
170 W. Channel Rd., Santa Monica
(310) 230-0402
www.goldenbull.us

With over 50 years in business at the bottom of Chautauqua Canyon in Santa Monica, the Golden Bull has seen a lot of history. From floods to the 1994 earthquake that closed the restaurant for 20 months, this steakhouse is a survivor. Owner Don informed me that the block-long stretch of West Channel Road where his restaurant is located used to have three gay bars -- today, only the Golden Bull remains. Back in the day, Don (who has worked at the restaurant for 39 years and owned it for 24) said the bar was gay and the restaurant straight, but now the crowd is decidedly mixed, and everyone is welcome for the friendly service, reasonable prices, and steaks you'd pay considerably more for elsewhere.

The Golden Bull is the kind of retro restaurant that was popular with the martini set in the '60s when it first opened, when a steak was a steak and men were men. Although the place has never fallen out of favor, this timeless cuisine has regained popularity (low carb, high protein) and the soft jazz, red leather booths, and fireplace ambience of the bar area is recommended. For those liking something on the lighter side, they also offer seafood specialties (blackened, lightly breaded and grilled, char grilled, or sautéed in wine), chicken dishes, and pastas -- there is even a scattering of vegetarian dishes.

However, we were there for the meat -- a carnivorous evening. I was amazed to see rumaki on the menu -- they brought back memories of Chinese takeout from my childhood. The Golden Bull's, however, we're much bigger, far more succulent, and the plum sauce was a tangy difference from the Chinese mustard and ketchup served with the Cantonese version. The surf and turf here is an excellent choice, with a grilled lobster tail thankfully removed from its shell, accompanied by a juicy, thick filet mignon cooked perfectly rare -- just as I had ordered. Grilling is an excellent way to prepare lobster, as it concentrates the flavor, and the Golden Bull's chef took care to not overcook it. Another recommendation is the rack of lamb, with wonderfully tender chops, with just enough fat left on to enhance the gamey flavor of the lamb. Steak choices range from New York to prime rib, t-bone, Chateaubriand for two, and more. All entrées are served with soup, salad (try the raspberry vinaigrette), and your choice of rice, french fries, and baked potato (go ahead, indulge and get it with everything).

Dessert choices include cheesecake, coconut cream pie, Key lime pie, apple pie a la mode, and more. Our server recommended the mocha ice cream pie, and it was great. Be sure to let it soften before digging into the nutty mocha ice cream topped with whipped cream, all held together by a chocolate cookie crust.

The Golden Bull also has some thrifty early bird specials, as well as Sunday brunch, and a full bar.