Steadfast in a Changing World

With 42 years in business, Lucy's El Adobe keeps it real.

By Joseph S. Amster

Restaurants come and go in L.A. -- last year's hip joint is today's for lease sign. I've said it before, but it bears repeating: My favorite restaurants are the ones that have been around for decades. One such eatery is Lucy's El Adobe. Located across from Paramount Studios on Melrose Avenue, Lucy's (and Lucy herself, who is now 80 and can still be seen supervising the establishment) has seen a lot of history, which is reflected by the numerous celebrity photos that grace the walls. While many restaurants name specialties after famous customers, only former Gov. Jerry Brown is acknowledged for his favorite dish -- the arroz con pollo -- and even that's not named for him.

Begin your meal with Lucy's smoky and spicy salsa, which is not the usual wimpy gringo fare you often find at "authentic" Mexican restaurants. Since "Governor Moonbeam" loves their arroz con pollo, the gauntlet had been thrown down -- I had to try it. If you like very tender chunks of moist chicken breast, with tomatoes, bell peppers, and onion, cooked not too al dente or soft, seasoned with cilantro and oregano and served atop fragrant rice, this is the dish for you. For those who want to take a walk on the pork side, the chile verde is tender, stringy and flavorful slow-cooked chunks of pork, swimming in a mild green sauce with tomatoes, bell peppers, and onion that have been cooked into a soft mélange. All entrees also come with Lucy's soup (a light start to the meal, swimming with barley, lentils, corn, carrots, celery, and onion), salad with a light vinaigrette, your choice of corn or flour tortillas, and very creamy beans.

Other specialties include chile rellanos, chile Colorado, gallina mole, chorizo, ropa vieja, carne asada de guacamole, steak picado, and more. For those wanting the more traditional favorites, Lucy's features seven different varieties of enchiladas, tacos, tostadas, tamales, and burritos. Numerous combinations are also available, running the gambit from just a tamale with all the above mentioned sides; to a taco, enchilada, and chile rellano with everything -- come with a big appetite.

Lucy's also has a full bar, and their margaritas are legendary (you can even order them by the pitcher). For those who prefer cerveza, they offer a wide range of Mexican beers in addition to a few domestics (why would you want a Bud though?). Dessert is a simple choice: flan. It sure must be popular, because the menu says "when available."

In this ever-changing world, it's nice to know that there are some things that remain eternal. Fancy places like the Ambassador Hotel, Perinos, Chasen's, and The Brown Derby may all be gone, but simple eateries like Pink's, the Apple Pan, Johnnie's, Canter's, and Lucy's El Adobe endure.