By Lawrence Ferber

The movie theater isn't the only place to find gay cowboys this winter. From the infamous book depository to lesbian bars named after alcoholic soap opera heroines, here's our guide to gay Dallas.

Everybody loves a cowboy ... or at least they will after seeing Brokeback Mountain. So what better time to visit Dallas, Texas, a modern metropolis where a dash of cowboy culture and looks can still be found. Not only that, but Dallas has a rowdy gay scene where real life Jake Gyllenhaals and Heath Ledgers can celebrate out and proud. Yee-haaaaw!

Alas, in November Texas voters overwhelmingly passed a state constitutional ban (Proposition 2) banning gay marriage and possibly any sort of legal same-sex partnership recognition. Although this action surely bolsters the perception of Texas as a bubbling cauldron of Republican, religious, and right-wing zealot thinking, Dallas in fact offers impressively liberal, hopeful contradictions to that generalization: It's home to the Cathedral of Hope (www.cathedralofhope.com), the world's largest GLBT/liberal Christian church; Monica Greene, a transsexual and enormously successful restaurateur, almost won her 2005 city council campaign; out singer George Michael and partner/Dallas native Kenny Goss set up a home and art gallery, Goss Gallery; and a neighborhood, Oaklawn, is anchored by a dense gay strip that rivals San Francisco's Castro or NYC's Chelsea.

Touting the slogan "Live Large, Think Big," and a population of approximately 3.7 million, Dallas is the ninth largest city in the United States and lays claim to being the number one visitor destination in Texas. It's no wonder: With a generous number of hotel rooms (over 65,000), the city is host to nonstop conventions and events, including a gay and lesbian film festival, Out Takes Dallas (www.outtakesdallas.org). The city's official tourism Web site is www.dallascvb.com.

Until the W Hotel Dallas opens its doors in 2006, Hotel ZaZa (2332 Leonard St., (800) 597-8399, www.hotelzaza.com) is the city's indisputably hippest lodging option. Past guests include Christina Aguilera, Cher, Britney Spears, and Todd Oldham. Local society types regularly flock to the hotel's see-and-be-seen restaurant, Dragonfly, and outdoor pool area. The creative concept suites, including Moulin Rouge-esque Bohemian, swinging '60s flavored "Shag-a-delic," and, of course, "Texas" are gorgeously appointed with funky art and d'cor. A business traveler's dream, the 1,600 room The Wyndham Anatole (2201 Stemmons Freeway, (800) WYNDHAM, www.wyndham.com) boasts 10 restaurants/bars, a fantastic gym, four pools, jogging track and lagoon, an impressive art collection and a section of the Berlin Wall. For those who consider proximity to the gay strip paramount, the Melrose Hotel (3015 Oak Lawn Ave., (214) 521-5151, www.melrosehotel.com) is a must. More old-time Dallas than nouveau in aesthetic, it's literally steps away from Oaklawn's gay bounty ... especially convenient if you've yippee-kay-ayed all night/morning long.

The Oaklawn neighborhood's Cedar Springs strip is Dallas' Castro/Chelsea, dense with gay bars, clubs, restaurants, cafes, shops, and endless foot traffic. There's an establishment for every taste, and unlike most cities, there are even spectacular hangouts for the ladies. Many of these venues are members of the Dallas Tavern Guild, an organization "presenting a positive image of the gay and lesbian community in Texas." Check their Web site, www.dallastavernguild.org, for lists of clubs, restaurants, and much more.

For those cowboys, mosey directly to The Round-Up Saloon, which dishes up a super-friendly country-western flavor, two-stepping, and sexy boots-and-hat staff. The two-floor JR's, popular for its second level outdoor deck and upscale video bar feel, attracts a largely preppy crowd. The Thockmorton Mining Company is dark inside but the mood is always upbeat and dancey, attracting a diverse crowd from bears to twinks to hip-hop fans. Circuit boys and their ilk will adore Station 4, the most "mainstream" and modern dance club on the strip. Just upstairs, in The Rose Room, drag queens take to stage. An African-American crowd gathers on Sundays at Havana.

Well worth a visit to the Oak Cliff neighborhood, Barbara's Pavilion is one of Dallas' most friendly, quirky bars. Attracting an almost exclusively Latino crowd, Kaliente is very hot (it's worth noting that non-Latinos generally go ignored here), as is the sprawling Bamboleo's. Sue Ellen's (yes, named after that Dallas character) is one of the largest and most upbeat lesbian clubs I've ever visited, with a large outdoor patio that regularly hosts women's music and comedy acts. Another bustling, giant women's club, Buddies II, features several bar areas, an outdoor pool/sports, and shows on weekends. For a little go-go eye candy and sleaze, respectively don't forget Crews Inn and the locally infamous cruise spot, Trestle.

For some daytime culture, many museums are conveniently crammed into downtown's Arts District (www.artsdistrict.org). The Dallas Art Museum, The Crow Collection of Asian Art, and the Nasher Sculpture Garden are within steps of each other. Works by modern international and local artists, including photog David LaChapelle, populate the new Goss Gallery (www.gossgallery.com).

The Sixth Floor Museum (www.jfk.org), housed in the actual book depository building from which Lee Harvey Oswald allegedly shot JFK, has been transformed into a multimedia exhibit dedicated to the president and his assassination. For some nature and relaxation, The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden (www.dallasarboretum.org) is a recommended stop. Shop-aholics have many centers to choose from, including the famed flagship Neiman Marcus (One Marcus Square), a holy grail for department store queens. Music lovers should definitely visit Good Records (www.goodrecords.com), a very cool alternative CD shop owned by members of The Polyphonic Spree.

But why visit Dallas without indulging in a "Texas-sized" experience? Yes, it's true about how big that Texas-size is? when it comes to food. Oaklawn's 24-hour Caf? Brazil (www.cafebrazil.com) features tasty Tex-Mex meals, including the superb all-day/night "Brazilian Breakfast" of eggs and a chorizo empanada slathered with spicy cream sauce. The Black-Eyed Pea (3857 Cedar Springs Rd.), a chain, serves Southern specialties like chicken fried steak, collard greens, and fried okra. Two popular Dallas Mexican restaurants, Monica's (www.monicas.com) and Ciudad (www.ciudaddf.com), are the babies of Monica Greene, a transsexual. Her business and recent political popularity perfectly illustrate a strange Texan dichotomy? individuals are embraced with gusto while conservative and homophobic politics rule. Queens will love Abacus (www.abacus-restaurant.com) for its contemporary global creations including lobster dumpling shooters. And Hector's on Henderson (2929 Henderson Ave.) offers fantastic new American dishes.

Finally, those after a hearty helping of the real Texas deal rodeo rasslin will want to visit Fort Worth's Cowtown Coliseum (www.cowtowncoliseum.com) and check out the Texas Gay Rodeo Association's Web site (www.texasgayrodeo.org) for events.