A cornucopia of fresh and succulent surprises awaits at this bright and cheery eatery.

By Joseph S. Amster

Driving by Roman’s on Sunset Boulevard, it would be easy to dismiss it as a clone of one of those national sandwich shop chains, but once you enter this sunny and upscale decorated establishment, a very different culinary experience is in store.

Roman’s motto is “Beyond Fresh… Beyond Expectations,” and they live up to it. The menu’ offerings are also far beyond that of a mere sandwich shop, with everything from appetizers, salads, pizzas, breakfasts, and complete dinners offered at very reasonable prices—nothing on the menu is over $9.50. Value also goes hand in hand with quality, as everything is fresh and natural, and instead of having your order barked out from behind the counter wrapped in paper, it’s brought to your table and served on plates with silverware. The atmosphere encourages patrons to linger over their meals (especially on the patio), use their wireless Internet, enjoy a glass of wine or a coffee drink, a homemade dessert (all the bakery items, indeed everything served is made on the premises), and relax.

For appetizers, I highly recommend the onion strings, which are cut paper-thin and quick fried to a crispy and non-oily finish. They pair well with Roman’s pungent and slightly spicy barbecue dipping sauce, but the tangy lemon garlic sauce (one of the numerous options available) is also an excellent choice. Salads range from the ubiquitous Caesar to tuna and Greek, but my favorite is the grilled seafood: lightly grilled fish and shrimp on fresh greens and salsa tossed with lemon-caper dressing.

When I’ve dined at Roman’s, everything has been cooked to perfection—so many places tend to overcook their fish, beef, and chicken. This attention to technique was most evident in Roman’s tri-tip and chicken breast. Tri-tip can be a disaster in the wrong hands—I’ve had plenty that was as tough as shoe leather. This cut requires slow cooking to bring out its tenderness, which Roman’s enhances with a week-long marinating process. Therefore, I heartily recommend anything on the menu with tri-tip, as well as chicken breast, which is also slow-cooked and succulent. Both are available in sandwich and pressed wrap selections, along with choices ranging from Portofino, B.L.T., and grilled fish on the sandwich side, and jambalaya, stroganoff, and Baja Mexacali on the wrap side. It’s the dinner plate selections, however, that are the best value, with most running around $9.50. They include a side order (I recommend the crispy seasoned fries or their three-bean chili), a side salad, roll, and their salad bar (a fascinating culinary experience in itself). Roman’s also offers excellent pizzas, served up on a thin cracker crispy crust. I had the Mediterranean and was impressed with the freshness of the toppings, as well as the spicy marinara sauce and gooey buffalo mozzarella. Roman’s also offers breakfast from 7-11 a.m., with nothing on the menu over $5.99.